Category Archives: Blog

Just like your car needs a warrant of fitness, your horse does too — especially heading into the busy summer season! ☀️

Our Summer Equine W.O.F. checks are a full head-to-hoof health assessment designed to catch little problems before they turn into big ones.

Summer can be tough on horses — long days, hard work, heat, and travel all take their toll. These comprehensive check-ups are the best way to make sure your horse is fit, comfortable, and performing at their best for the months ahead.

Why Summer?
Because this is when most horses are at their busiest — training, competing, trekking, and travelling. The warmer weather also brings extra challenges like heat stress, parasites, and changing pasture quality. A pre-season check helps you stay ahead of these issues and keep your horse feeling their best all summer long. 🌞

We often find small issues — from subtle lameness or dental wear to mineral imbalances — that can quietly affect comfort and condition. Catching them early means easier fixes, faster recovery, and a happier horse overall 🐎💛

Our W.O.F. packages are a great way to give your horse that full “once-over” at a discounted rate, with options to suit every horse — from top performers to treasured paddock mates.
Choose from our comprehensive Platinum package (including gastroscope and balance X-rays) right through to the streamlined Bronze.

✅ Health check and annual treatments
✅ Lameness locator and dental exam
✅ Parasite, mineral and weight assessments
✅ Optional dental float add-on for $150

Because good maintenance isn’t just about performance — it’s about giving your horse the best chance at a long, healthy, and happy life.

📞 Book your Summer W.O.F. today — available November and December only.

It’s that time of the year again when the fizz pop bang of fireworks can be a source of joy for many humans, but a source of fear and anxiety for our furry friends.

Helping Your Pet Stay Calm During Scary Seasons

Halloween, Guy Fawkes, and holiday time are full of fun for us — but for many pets the fizz, pop and bang of fireworks, and strange costumes, new smells and decorations, or being away at a kennel or cattery can all make our furry friends feel anxious.

The good news is there’s a lot you can do to help them feel safe and calm.

 How to Tell if Your Pet’s Feeling Anxious

Anxiety doesn’t always look the same — some pets get jumpy, while others shut down.
Here are a few things to watch for:

Dogs might:
Tremble, pant, or pace
Bark or whine more than usual
Hide or try to escape
Lose interest in food
Have wee or poo accidents inside

Cats might:
Hide under the bed or in cupboards
Meow more, or go unusually quiet
Lick themselves too much (overgrooming)
Stop eating or using the litter box, or wee or poo outside the litter box
Act grumpy or lash out

If you notice any of these, it’s your pet’s way of saying, “I’m not okay right now.”

Simple Things You Can Do at Home

A few small changes can make a big difference:

Set up a safe zone:
Pick a quiet room with their favourite blanket, toys, and water. Close the curtains and pop some soft music or white noise on to help cover the bangs and crackles.

Stay calm yourself:
Your pet looks to you for reassurance. Speak gently, move slowly, and keep things as normal as possible.

Stick to routine:
Regular mealtimes and walks help pets feel secure, even when things outside get noisy or busy. However on evenings like Guy Fawkes night or New Year’s Eve when you know fireworks are likely, it may be a good idea to take your pet for a walk before it gets dark so they are less likely to get spooked by sudden bangs when out and about.

Get them used to noises:
In the weeks before fireworks season, you can play quiet recordings of fireworks or thunder and reward calm behaviour. It helps them learn those sounds aren’t scary. Check out the Sounds Scary desensitisation guide here https://www.dogstrust.org.uk/dog-advice/understanding-your-dog/sound-therapy-for-pets Please be sure to read the guidance before playing the sound tracks as they contain loud noises and you need to follow the step by step plan to help your pet get acclimatised.

Keep them secure:                                                                                                            Ensure cat flaps are closed and dogs are secure in your home as sometimes pets can bolt if very frightened and would be at risk of getting lost or injured by traffic.

If they’re boarding:
Bring along their own blanket or toy so they’ve got a comforting familiar smell. Try a short “practice stay” if it’s their first time at the kennel or cattery.

Gentle Calming Aids You Can Try

Some over-the-counter options can help take the edge off mild anxiety:

Pheromone products like Adaptil (for dogs) and Feliway (for cats) release natural calming scents.
Anxiety wraps or ThunderShirts give comforting, gentle pressure.
Calming supplements with ingredients like L-tryptophan, L-theanine, or casein can help some pets relax such as Calmex or Pro Plan Calming Care and Calm & Relax Chews.

It’s best to start these a few days before things get loud — not on the night itself.

When to Chat with The Vet

If your pet really struggles — or you’re not sure what’s best — your vet can help.

We can:

• Rule out any health problems that might make things worse.
• Recommend short-term calming medications or mild sedatives for firework nights or travel.
• Create a longer-term plan for pets with ongoing anxiety.

Every pet is different, and there’s no one-size-fits-all fix. We’ll work with you to find the right approach.

A Little Planning Goes a Long Way

These celebrations come around every year, so planning ahead makes all the difference.
With a safe space, calm routine, and the right support, your pet can get through the spooky season — and you’ll both enjoy a more peaceful time together.

If your furry friend gets anxious during fireworks or boarding, book a chat with our team before things get noisy — we’re here to help keep tails wagging and whiskers relaxed.

 

At Vets North, we know how quickly horses can go from happy in the paddock to needing urgent veterinary attention. Being able to recognise the early signs of common emergencies – and knowing what to do while you wait for us – can make a big difference to your horse’s outcome.

Lameness & Hoof Problems

A horse that is suddenly non-weight bearing lame is always a concern. Common causes include foot abscesses, penetrating wounds, pedal bone fractures, laminitis, or septic joints. Each needs a different treatment plan, so the best step is to call your vet immediately.

•  Foot abscesses: Bacteria enters through small cracks in the sole or the white line, causing a pocket of pus within the foot. We’ll pare the hoof to identify the tract and drain the abscess, poultice administer pain relief or tetanus cover if needed.
•  Penetrating wounds: Never remove the object yourself – it helps guide diagnosis and treatment. We’ll X-ray first, then safely remove the foreign body and provide the appropriate aftercare.
•  Pedal bone fractures: Often mimic an abscess but will have history of trauma to the foot, commonly after a horse has kicked a hard surface. X-rays confirm diagnosis, and prognosis depends on location and size of the fracture.
• Laminitis: This is a very painful condition leading to rotation of the pedal bone within the foot. Horses may rock back onto their hindlimbs, show heat in the hooves, or refuse to move. Treatment combines pain relief, supportive farriery, and strict rest.

Skin & Limb Conditions

• Cellulitis: A bacterial infection of soft tissue under the skin, causing heat and swelling which can spread throughout the limb rapidly. Prompt treatment with antibiotics and anti-inflammatories usually resolves cellulitis within a week.
• Mud fever: Caused by persistent wet, muddy conditions, leading to scabs and inflammation around the pastern. This is typically a bacterial infection but can also be fungal. Prevention is best, but treatment may involve careful clipping, cleaning, barrier creams, or systemic medication in severe cases.

Colic

Colic remains one of the most common equine emergencies. Signs of colic include rolling, pawing, flank-watching, stretching out, and reduced droppings. While most cases respond well to medical management, some may require referral for further monitoring, or even surgery. Call us straight away, and while waiting, keep your horse walking if it is safe to do so.

Eye Conditions

A swollen or painful eye should always be treated promptly. Possible causes include corneal ulcers, uveitis, conjunctivitis or trauma. Because eye conditions can deteriorate rapidly, call your vet immediately and keep the eye protected with a fly mask or in a dark stable until we arrive.

Choke

Choke occurs when food becomes lodged in the oesophagus, not the airway. Signs include coughing, nasal discharge, and stretching of the neck. Most cases self-resolve within 30 minutes, but if it persists beyond this time, call your vet who will pass a stomach tube to clear the obstruction. Never attempt to syringe fluids into the horse’s mouth, as this risks aspiration of fluid into the lungs.

Wounds

Wounds vary in severity, and not all are suitable for bandaging or stitching. Contact your vet if you see:

• Wounds over joints
• Heavy bleeding
• Exposed bone, tendon, or ligaments
• Wounds associated with lameness
• Wounds that are not healing

Flush with clean water, apply pressure if bleeding, and keep your horse calm until we arrive.

The Take-Home Message

When it comes to equine first aid, the golden rule is simple: call your vet early. While basic first aid can help keep your horse comfortable, timely veterinary care is the best way to ensure a positive outcome.

At Vets North, our equine team is here to support you and your horse 24/7. If you are ever in doubt – call us.

If you have stock in Auckland, you have likely dealt with the dilemma of when to drench. Parasite burdens are a significant issue in Auckland due to the region’s mild, wet climate, which creates ideal conditions for parasite eggs and larvae to survive and multiply on pastures. The warm temperatures and high humidity extend the life cycle of parasites, increasing the risk of infection for farm stock. Additionally, Auckland’s farming areas often experience higher stocking densities because of limited land availability, which facilitates the rapid spread of parasites among animals.

On lifestyle blocks we often see intensive grazing practices and limited pasture rotation further contribute to parasite build-up in the environment. On top of this, frequent and sometimes unstrategic use of drenches has led to drug-resistant parasites, making control efforts more challenging for Auckland farmers. Together, these factors make parasite management a particularly pressing issue in the region.

The thing to remember is that farm stock will always have worms, and the fastest way to get worm resistance is to try and have no worms. You need to farm your worms, just as you farm your stock. The trick is to have enough worms for you stock to build up their immunity but not too many to cause ill health. Sounds simple, right?

All individuals are different when it comes to worm burden. A small proportion of the mob carry most of the worms. In commercial sized mobs it is too hard to find the infested individual and treat them, so everybody is treated. However, with small groups you can faecal sample individuals and drench according to the results. This is best practice on lifestyle blocks, contact the clinic on 0800 VTS NTH to find out how to faecal egg count your stock or lifestyle pets.

Different classes of stock have different background levels of immunity to worms. Adult sheep and cattle do not need intensive drenching. Lambs and goats are more susceptible to worms so need more care.

The stocking rate of your property has a huge impact on the amount of parasitism in the stock. Heavily stocked properties with short grass cover will get a lot more worm problems. Our Lifestyle Vet team are here to help create a tailored health management plan for your lifestyle block, including how to best manage your pasture.

Having multiple different types of stock on a property (cattle, sheep, horses) will help control worms as they will clean up after each other. This is often referred to as cross grazing, the idea is that many parasites are species-specific, meaning the worms and parasites that infect sheep won’t survive or develop in cattle, and vice versa. By moving different types of animals onto the same pasture one after the other, you break the parasite life cycle. Cross grazing can be an effective natural strategy to manage parasite burdens, improve pasture health, and support livestock immunity.

Drench resistance (the ability of a worm to survive a drench treatment) is now unfortunately quite common. The only way to know if the drench that you gave has worked is to do a faecal egg count 10 to 14 days after the drench. The best way to prevent drench resistance developing is to not use drenches unnecessarily or excessively and faecal egg counting can give you the information needed to know when to drench.

Ready to take control of parasites the smart way? Don’t guess—know your farm’s parasite levels with a faecal egg count. It’s the key to effective, targeted drenching that protects your stock and helps prevent resistance. Contact us on 0800 VTS NTH to schedule your faecal egg counting service and keep your animals healthy and productive!

Dental Disease in Pets

Ready to Sink Your Teeth into this month’s blog post?! Let’s talk about your pets’ gnashers!

Who says dental hygiene is just for humans? Your pets’ pearly whites need love too!

Did you know dental disease is one of the most common conditions vets see in dogs, cats and pet rabbits? Yep, a whopping 70% of cats and 80% of dogs will have some form of dental disease by the time they’re just 2 years old! It is estimated that up to 60% of pet rabbits world-wide also suffer from dental problems, and while we don’t have stats for the NZ bunny brigade, we do know dental issues are rampant in our hoppers too. The good news? Most dental diseases are preventable with a little TLC and regular check-ups.  It’s super important – and super easy – to learn how to recognize dental problems in your pet and proactively work to keep gum disease and tooth decay at bay – and hopefully reduce the need for general anaesthesia (for dental treatment) as your pet gets older.

What IS Dental Disease?

“Dental Disease” is a broad term that covers a bunch of gnarly conditions in pet species:

• Periodontal Disease – this is by far the most common type of dental disease seen in pet doggos and kitties. It refers to infection and inflammation of the periodontium (the tissues that surround and bolster the teeth, essentially anchoring them in place – gums, periodontal ligament, cementum and a special part of the jaw bone). . If left unchecked, it can ultimately result in tooth loss (yikes) as the infection reaches the tooth socket in the bone. Most dogs and cats with periodontal will continue eating even dry food, though sometimes you may notice they’re chewing on one side only, dropping their food while chewing, or preferentially eating soft food. Regular check ups help identify disease earlier so we can treat it before it becomes too painful or results in tooth loss.
• Gingivtis – This is the precursor to periodontal disease. It is the inflammation of the gums because of bacterial plaque. The inflamed gums look red or even purplish close to gumline (where the gums meets the tooth) and can appear swollen. Those poor inflamed gums will bleed easily and often cause bad breath too. Proper tooth cleaning can help reverse gingivitis, however if untreated it will often progress to periodontal disease.

Because cats are cats :-p they can suffer from a specific form of gingivitis which is caused by a viral infection (usually contracted from their mum) or by their own immune system attacking the gum tissue. This form of gingivitis is usually quite severe – ouch! Proper hygiene is crucial in these guys to keep the plaque party in check, and these kitties may also need additional treatment  (antiviral medication, pain killers and dental treatment to clean beneath the gums and remove affected teeth).

• Fractured Teeth – Chomping down on hard objects (we’re looking at you, bones and antlers!) or rough play can chip or fracture teeth, as can trauma from falls, accidents or fighting. Fractured teeth maybe painful, discoloured or wobbly, though some pets won’t show any symptoms but fractures expose vulnerable parts of the tooth, which means infection could be around the corner In most cases extraction of fractured teeth is recommended, or referral to a dental specialist for a root canal procedure may be advised.
• Tooth Decay and Resorptive Lesions – : While tooth decay like we humans get is rare, it can happen, especially after a tooth is fractured. Cats, however, are more prone to resorptive lesions where the tooth literally starts crumbling away, causing pain and ultimately tooth loss.Extraction time!
• Overcrowding and Improper Bite – Smaller breed dogs and flat-faced breeds (dogs and cats) often have too many teeth crammed into a mouth that’s too small! Crowded teeth trap food and plaque which leads to infection. If the teeth aren’t aligning as they should, they can pinch the gums or lips making them sore over time. Regular cleaning and corrective treatment if indicated is the key to keeping these little mouths happy.

How Is Dental Disease Diagnosed And Treated?

A regular dental check-up with your vet team is key to catching problems early. Sometimes your pet will need dental X-rays and an examination under anesthesia to get the full picture (and scrub those hard-to-reach areas).

Unless the dental disease is at the early stages (such as minimal plaque and early gingivitis), most pets will require dental treatment under general anaesthetic to ensure we do a proper job. Yes, we know, anaesthesia sounds scary, but don’t worry,  the vet will discuss everything we do to make it as safe as possible.

How Do I Prevent Dental Disease in My Pet?

As the old saying goes, prevention is better than cure!

It is best to start preventative measures early on when your pup or kitten is still young, so that they get accustomed to having their teeth cleaned at home and also to give them the best chance of avoiding dental disease in the future. Equally, if your pet has ended up needing dental treatment, it is imperitive to start a preventative regime ASAP so that we don’t end up in the same situation again – recurrence after treatment is super common because the plaque starts building up pretty much straight away – just like we still have to regularly brush and floss our teeth after a trip to the dental hygienist!

BRUSHING is the best way to keep your pets mouth healthy. Don’t panic – it’s easier than you think! . [Click here] for a handy guide on brushing your pet’s teeth.

Dental diets, wipes, and water additives can help, but nothing beats the trusty toothbrush! Click [here] to find out more about these products.

Remember, regular vet check-ups are just as important. Annual exams are ideal, but pets at higher risk (older pets, those with dental history, or overcrowded teeth) should be seen every 4-6 months.

Bonus: We’re offering FREE dental exams with our nurses for dogs and cats— Book Now!

A Bit About Buns!

Did you know your rabbit’s teeth never stop growing? They definitely can get long in the tooth as they age! Jokes aside, dental disease is one of the most common problems we encounter in pet rabbits. If they don’t get enough fiber, it can lead to dental chaos. Rabbits need course fibre (found in the good stuff such as Meadow or Timothy hay) to grind down their constantly growing teeth, otherwise they get two main dental issues:

• Overgrown incisors which make it difficult to grasp food to eat
• The molars wear down unevenly resulting in sharp points that injure the tongue and inner cheek, and in severe cases grow over the tongue like a cage trapping it inside. These bunnies can then no longer eat.

Eating regularly and eating sufficient amount of fibre is essential for bunny’s digestive tract to work properly – if this balance is upset their guts literally stop working (gut stasis) which is a life threatening condition.

Like with dogs and cats, prevention is best!  And it’s super easy! Ensure you’re feeding your bunnies a good diet: a diet mainly composed of unlimited supply of good quality hay, supplemented by a small amount of fresh greens (e.g. kale, romain lettuce, broccoli greens) and limited amount of high fibre pellets, with only occasional treats in small quantities (such as piece of carrot or apple). . Oh, and don’t forget to schedule regular vet check-ups to keep an eye on those teeth and their general health!

 

Understanding Abomasal Bloat

The abomasum is the fourth stomach in ruminants like sheep. In young ruminants, milk is diverted directly to the abomasum rather than the rumen, where feed will end up once they start grazing. Abomasal bloat occurs when gas produced in the abomasum cannot escape, causing it to inflate like a balloon. This pressure can affect other organs and potentially cause the abomasum to rupture. This condition arises when certain bacteria in the abomasum combine with sugar from a milk diet, rapidly producing a large amount of gas.

What to Do if Your Lamb is Bloated

If your lamb is already bloated, give us a call! We can pass a needle into the stomach to remove the excess gas. Sometimes antibiotics and anti-inflammatories may aid recovery.

Preventing Abomasal Bloat: Yoghurtising Milk

The best way to prevent bloat in lambs is to feed ‘yoghurtised’ milk replacer. This method reduces the amount of sugar available to bacteria in the gut and provides probiotics (beneficial bacteria) that compete with harmful bacteria, preventing them from overpopulating the gut. Feeding this mixture cold also slows the breakdown of any remaining sugars, further reducing the risk of bloat.

How to Prepare Yoghurtised Milk

There are various recipes for yoghurtising milk, but a practical approach is to prepare 5-7 days’ worth at a time, as the mix won’t last much longer than that in the fridge. Here’s a simple method:

1. Mixing Ratio: Add live acidophilus yoghurt to the milk at a ratio of 1:7.
2. Incubation: Store the mixture in a bucket in a hot water cupboard or a chilly bin with a hot water bottle for 12-24 hours.
3. Storage: After incubation, store the mixture in the fridge. Use 200mL from this mix as a starter for your next batch. It’s helpful to have two buckets so you can start the next batch before the first is finished.
4. Volume Consideration: Ensure the bucket can hold twice the volume you’re putting into it to prevent any messy explosions in the hot water cupboard.

Ensuring the health and well-being of your young ruminants starts with proper feeding practices. Here’s a comprehensive guide to help you get started:

Colostrum: The First Essential Feed

All ruminants need colostrum within the first 24 hours of life, ideally within the first 12 hours. After 24 hours, lambs can no longer absorb the antibodies in colostrum, which are crucial for protection against infections during the first 12 weeks of lif

• Sources of Colostrum: Lambs can receive colostrum from their mother ewe, another animal (cow colostrum can be used in a pinch), or powdered colostrum products like ‘New Born’ or ‘Jumpstart’, which we stock.
• Feeding Schedule: Ideally, colostrum should be fed over the first 48 hours. Transition to warm milk replacer by gradually reducing the amount of colostrum and replacing it with products like ‘Anlamb’ or an equivalent.

Milk Replacer Transition

A lamb should consume 10-15% of its body weight daily, initially spread over 5-8 feeds per day. Transition to a cold yoghurtised mixture by mixing warm milk replacer with cold yoghurtised milk in increasing amounts until the lamb is on straight yoghurtised milk by day 7.

• Mixing Tips: Always mix the yoghurtised milk well before each feed, as it may settle or form a crust on top.